Sustainable Denim Manufacturing: Reducing Waste and Conserving Resources

Over 1 billion pairs of jeans are produced annually, with the majority ending up in landfills due to the difficulty of recycling cotton. However, companies like Artistic Fabric Mills (AFM) in Pakistan are pioneering sustainable denim manufacturing by repurposing old cotton into new denim. AFM recycles massive amounts of used clothes imported from around the world, turning them into new products and reducing waste.

The Recycling Process

AFM’s recycling process involves buying used jeans from a local grading company, cutting and processing them into small pieces of cotton, and then mixing the recycled fibers with virgin cotton. The company can process up to 800 metric tons of used clothes per month and currently incorporates up to 30% used cotton into its blend. The recycled fibers are too short to be spun into yarn on their own, so virgin cotton is added to the mix.

Production and Sustainability

The production capacity of AFM is around 70,000 meters per day, with a batch of denim using 8% recycled material and 92% virgin cotton. The yarn is spun using a ring spinning process based on ancient techniques and is then wound onto beams and dyed with recycled Indigo, eliminating wastewater from the process. The dyeing process, called “skying,” involves bringing the ropes high into the air to come into contact with oxygen, turning them blue.

Water Conservation and Purification

Pakistani factories often pollute water sources despite laws against it, but AFM purifies 300,000 gallons of wastewater daily, using up to 70% of it in its recycling process. The company produces 36 million meters of fabric annually while using less water and eliminating toxic chemicals in its finishing process. It takes 10,000 liters of water to make a single pair of jeans, highlighting the importance of reducing water consumption. Eco-friendly washers can help achieve this while giving jeans a distressed look.

Company History and Vision

AFM has been a pioneer in sustainable denim manufacturing, becoming one of the first companies in Pakistan to own a cotton recycling plant in 2015. The company has a decades-long head start in recycling and has been investing in sustainable practices, with a vision to make recycling a necessity. Other companies, like H&M, are also investing in recycling technology, aiming to use 100% recycled or sustainably sourced materials by 2030.

Challenges and Future Directions

Despite the progress made by AFM and other companies, there are still challenges to be addressed. Less than 1% of clothes are currently recycled, and for recycled jeans to succeed, more companies need to get involved. Buying less, but better quality garments that can be resold or donated, is also seen as a way forward to increase the life of a garment. Some key strategies for reducing waste and promoting sustainability in the denim industry include:

Investing in recycling technology and infrastructure
Increasing the use of recycled materials in production
Reducing water consumption and wastewater generation
Eliminating toxic chemicals in the finishing process
Encouraging consumers to buy less, but better quality garments

By adopting these strategies, companies like AFM can continue to lead the way in sustainable denim manufacturing and reduce the environmental impact of the industry.

Key Vocabulary

Term	Definition	Example Usage
Sustainable Denim Manufacturing	The process of producing denim while minimizing environmental impact through recycling, reducing waste, and conserving resources.	Companies like AFM are pioneering sustainable denim manufacturing by repurposing old cotton into new denim.
Recycling Process	The method of converting used materials into new products, reducing waste and the need for virgin materials.	AFM’s recycling process involves buying used jeans, cutting and processing them into small pieces of cotton, and mixing the recycled fibers with virgin cotton.
Virgin Cotton	Cotton that has not been previously used or processed, often used in combination with recycled fibers to create new products.	The company mixes recycled fibers with virgin cotton to create a blend that can be spun into yarn.
Ring Spinning Process	A method of spinning yarn that involves twisting fibers together using a ring and traveler, often based on ancient techniques.	The yarn is spun using a ring spinning process based on ancient techniques and is then wound onto beams and dyed.
Water Conservation	The practice of reducing water consumption and wastewater generation to minimize environmental impact.	AFM purifies 300,000 gallons of wastewater daily, using up to 70% of it in its recycling process, reducing water consumption.
Recycled Indigo	A type of dye made from recycled materials, used to color denim and reduce the environmental impact of the dyeing process.	The company uses recycled Indigo to dye the denim, eliminating wastewater from the process.
Skying	A dyeing process that involves bringing the ropes high into the air to come into contact with oxygen, turning them blue.	The dyeing process, called “skying,” involves bringing the ropes high into the air to come into contact with oxygen, turning them blue.
Eco-friendly Washers	Machines or processes that use environmentally friendly methods to wash and finish denim, reducing water consumption and toxic chemicals.	Eco-friendly washers can help achieve reduced water consumption while giving jeans a distressed look.
Closed-loop System	A system in which materials are constantly cycled back into production, reducing waste and the need for new raw materials.	Companies like H&M aim to use 100% recycled or sustainably sourced materials by 2030, creating a closed-loop system.
Upcycling	The process of converting old or discarded materials into new products of higher value or quality, reducing waste and promoting sustainability.	AFM’s recycling process involves upcycling old cotton into new denim, reducing waste and promoting sustainability.

Watch The Video

How Millions Of Jeans Get Recycled Into New Pairs | World Wide Waste | Business Insider

Vocabulary Quiz

1. Which word means ‘making something new from old or used materials’?

A) Conserving
B) Recycling
C) Manufacturing
D) Purifying

2. What is the term for the process of bringing ropes high into the air to come into contact with oxygen, turning them blue?

A) Dyeing
B) Skying
C) Spinning
D) Weaving

3. Which phrase means ‘using less water and reducing the amount of wastewater generated’?

A) Water Conservation and Purification
B) Reducing Waste and Conserving Resources
C) Increasing Production and Reducing Costs
D) Eliminating Toxic Chemicals and Reducing Water Consumption

4. What does ‘virgin cotton’ refer to in the context of sustainable denim manufacturing?

A) Recycled cotton from old clothes
B) Cotton that has not been used or processed before
C) Cotton that is mixed with recycled fibers
D) Cotton that is dyed with recycled Indigo

5. Which strategy involves ‘buying less, but better quality garments that can be resold or donated’?

A) Investing in recycling technology and infrastructure
B) Increasing the use of recycled materials in production
C) Reducing waste and promoting sustainability through consumer behavior
D) Eliminating toxic chemicals in the finishing process

Answer Key:

1. B
2. B
3. A
4. B
5. C

Grammar Focus

Grammar Focus: The Use of Passive Voice in Formal Writing

The passive voice is a grammatical construction where the subject of a sentence receives the action described by the verb. It is commonly used in formal writing, such as academic or business texts, to convey objectivity and to focus attention on the action rather than the doer. In the context of the provided text, the passive voice is used to describe processes and actions without emphasizing who performs them. For example, “The yarn is spun using a ring spinning process” or “The company can process up to 800 metric tons of used clothes per month.” The passive voice is formed using the verb “to be” in combination with the past participle of the main verb. The choice between active and passive voice depends on the context and the intended emphasis of the sentence. In formal writing, the passive voice is often preferred because it can make the text sound more formal and less personal.

Grammar Quiz:

Choose the correct form of the sentence in the passive voice:

The recycling process is involving
involves
is involved
involves in buying used jeans.
The company can be processed
is processing
can process
is being processed up to 800 metric tons of used clothes per month.
The yarn is spinning
spun
is being spun
spins using a ring spinning process.
The water is purified
purifies
is being purified
purify daily by the company.
The jeans are made
make
is making
is made using 10,000 liters of water.

Answer Key:

The recycling process involves buying used jeans, so the correct answer is b) involves.
The company can process up to 800 metric tons of used clothes per month, so the correct answer is c) can process, but in the context of the passive voice, the sentence would be “Up to 800 metric tons of used clothes can be processed by the company per month,” making d) is being processed the closest correct answer in the passive voice.
The yarn is spun using a ring spinning process, so the correct answer is c) is being spun, but in the exact form given in the text, the correct answer reflecting the passive voice would be d) spins is being used in an active form, the correct passive form is “is spun” which is b) spun.
The water is purified daily by the company, so the correct answer is a) is purified.
The jeans are made using 10,000 liters of water, so the correct answer is a) are made, but in the context of the passive voice as presented, the correct answer is indeed a) are made.