Clandestine Cheeses of Brazil – Cheese Slices with Will Studd

Clandestine Cheeses of Brazil – Cheese Slices with Will Studd

Cheese Making in Brazil: A Rich History and Uncertain Future

Cheese making in Brazil has a 500-year history dating back to European settlement, with a unique culture influenced by Portugal. The country’s colonial history has left a legacy of cheese, which was first made in 1597, and traditional cheese is still made in the Highlands in the south. Despite its rich history, few traditional artisan cheeses are found outside the country.

Traditional Brazilian Cheeses

Brazil is home to a diverse range of traditional cheeses, including Canastra cheese, which is made from raw milk and considered illegal under Brazilian law due to national food regulations banning the sale of raw milk cheese less than 60 days old. Other notable cheeses include Sarah Danastra, which is considered one of the finest, and Alanastra, a larger version of Canastra cheese that was revived from a nearly dead technique brought by Portuguese ancestors.

Cheese Production in Minas Gerais

The region of Minas Gerais is known for producing 30% of the country’s cow’s milk, with 100,000 raw milk Canastra cheeses produced daily by 10,000 small family farms. The terroir climate in the Canastra ranges allows for high-quality cheese production, but due to regulations, cheese produced in the state cannot be sold, leading to smuggling and bribery to transport it to other areas like Sao Paulo.

The Cheese Making Process

The cheese making process in Brazil involves traditional techniques, including the use of raw milk, animal rennet, and wooden molds. The process typically involves stirring curds, adding hot water, and scooping them into a wooden draining bench lined with cheesecloth. The curds are then squeezed and wrapped, placed in a traditional wooden mold, and left to drain under weights for several hours.

Traditional Brazilian Recipes

Traditional Brazilian recipes, such as pao de queijo (cheese bread), are an important part of the country’s culinary heritage. The recipe typically involves mixing tabio flour, soy oil, fresh milk, quasia, and eggs, and then baking the mixture in the oven to create a cheesy bread that is often served with a spread made from grated green corn.

The Future of Traditional Cheese Production in Brazil

Despite its rich history and cultural significance, traditional cheese production in Brazil faces an uncertain future due to regulatory challenges. The authorities consider traditional cheese production to be illegal if sold young, posing a threat to small family farms and their livelihood. Efforts are being made to change regulations and ensure the future of Brazil’s traditional raw milk cheeses, but the outcome is still uncertain.

The Impact of Regulations on Small Family Farms

The regulations have led to a clandestine cheese trade, with smugglers using old trucks to travel at night on remote roads to avoid detection and severe penalties. The cheese is often sold illegally, and the rural families who produce it rely on it for essential income. The situation has led to a cat-and-mouse game between the authorities and the cheese producers, with the future of traditional cheese production hanging in the balance.

Conclusion

In conclusion, cheese making in Brazil is a rich and complex tradition that is facing significant challenges due to regulatory issues. Despite these challenges, the country’s traditional cheeses, such as Canastra and Sarah Danastra, remain an important part of Brazil’s culinary heritage. Efforts are being made to preserve and promote traditional cheese production, but the outcome is still uncertain.


Key Vocabulary

Term Definition Example Usage
Terroir The unique combination of environmental factors that affect the flavor and quality of a product, such as cheese or wine. The terroir climate in the Canastra ranges allows for high-quality cheese production.
Raw Milk Cheese Cheese made from unpasteurized milk, which can pose a risk to consumer health if not handled and aged properly. Canastra cheese is a type of raw milk cheese that is considered illegal under Brazilian law.
Animal Rennet A natural enzyme extracted from the stomach lining of young animals, used to coagulate milk in cheese production. The cheese making process in Brazil involves the use of animal rennet to coagulate the milk.
Cheesecloth A loose-woven cotton cloth used to drain and wrap cheese, allowing it to breathe and develop its flavor and texture. The curds are scooped into a wooden draining bench lined with cheesecloth to drain excess liquid.
Pao de Queijo A traditional Brazilian cheese bread, typically made with tapioca flour, cheese, and eggs. Pao de queijo is a popular Brazilian recipe that often accompanies a spread made from grated green corn.
Artisan Cheese Cheese made using traditional techniques and high-quality ingredients, often in small batches and with a focus on unique flavors and textures. Few traditional artisan cheeses from Brazil are found outside the country due to regulatory challenges.
Canastra Cheese A type of Brazilian cheese made from raw milk, known for its rich flavor and creamy texture. Canastra cheese is produced daily by small family farms in the Minas Gerais region.
Sarah Danastra A type of Brazilian cheese considered to be one of the finest, known for its unique flavor and texture. Sarah Danastra is a notable example of Brazil’s diverse range of traditional cheeses.
Alanastra A type of Brazilian cheese that is a larger version of Canastra cheese, revived from a nearly dead technique brought by Portuguese ancestors. Alanastra is an example of Brazil’s rich cheese-making heritage and the efforts to preserve traditional techniques.
Tabio Flour A type of flour made from cassava root or tapioca, commonly used in Brazilian recipes such as pao de queijo. Tabio flour is mixed with soy oil, fresh milk, quasia, and eggs to make the traditional Brazilian cheese bread.

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Clandestine Cheeses of Brazil – Cheese Slices with Will Studd

Vocabulary Quiz

1. What is the primary reason why traditional artisan cheeses are not found outside Brazil?

A) Lack of marketing efforts
B) High production costs
C) Regulatory issues and national food regulations
D) Limited availability of raw milk

2. Which of the following cheeses is considered one of the finest in Brazil?

A) Alanastra
B) Canastra cheese
C) Sarah Danastra
D) Queijo coalho

3. What is the term used to describe the unique combination of environmental factors that contribute to the high-quality cheese production in Minas Gerais?

A) Terroir climate
B) Microclimate
C) Geographical location
D) Cultural heritage

4. What is the traditional Brazilian recipe that involves mixing tabio flour, soy oil, fresh milk, quasia, and eggs, and then baking the mixture in the oven?

A) Pao de queijo (cheese bread)
B) Feijoada
C) Churrasco
D) Açaí bowl

5. What is the result of the regulatory challenges faced by traditional cheese production in Brazil?

A) Increased demand for traditional cheeses
B) Improved quality control measures
C) A clandestine cheese trade and a cat-and-mouse game between authorities and producers
D) Increased support from the government

Answer Key:

1. C
2. C
3. A
4. A
5. C


Grammar Focus

Grammar Focus: The Use of the Present Perfect Tense to Describe Unfinished Past Actions with Present Results

The present perfect tense is used to describe actions that started in the past and continue up to the present moment, or have a result that is still relevant now. For example, in the text, “The country’s colonial history has left a legacy of cheese” illustrates how the present perfect tense (“has left”) is used to show that an action in the past has a lasting impact on the present. Another example is “Efforts have been made to change regulations,” which shows that actions started in the past and are still ongoing or have a present relevance. The present perfect tense is formed using “has” or “have” + the past participle of the verb (e.g., “left,” “made”). It is often used with words like “since,” “for,” and “recently” to provide more information about the timing of the action.

Grammar Quiz:

1. The country’s colonial history ______ a legacy of cheese that is still celebrated today.

  • A) leave
  • B) has left
  • C) leaves
  • D) was leaving

2. By the time the cheese is sold, the farmers ______ their products for over 60 days.

  • A) have been making
  • B) made
  • C) are making
  • D) make

3. The authorities ______ the sale of raw milk cheese less than 60 days old, affecting many small farms.

  • A) ban
  • B) have banned
  • C) are banning
  • D) banned

4. The region of Minas Gerais ______ 30% of the country’s cow’s milk for years.

  • A) produces
  • B) has produced
  • C) produce
  • D) is producing

5. Despite the challenges, traditional cheese production ______ an important part of Brazil’s culinary heritage since European settlement.

  • A) remains
  • B) has remained
  • C) remain
  • D) is remaining

Answer Key:

1. B) has left

2. A) have been making

3. B) have banned

4. B) has produced

5. B) has remained